Exhaust Gas Reburn Valve Removal

Contributed by Chad Hargis

The EGR valve (known as the "air switch" in Kawasaki's parts diagram) is an EPA mandated device which allows fuel that was not burned in the power stroke, to be burned after it has gone through the exhaust valves and into the exhaust header. This basically acts as a "flame thrower". The EGR valve draws air from the airbox, and mixes it with the fuel to cause it to burn. This causes the backfire noises you may hear with an aftermarket slip-on when you roll off the throttle.

Removal of the valve and it's hardware should eliminate that nasty backfire noise, as well as allow the bike to run somewhat better. It's an easy mod anyone can do with a few minutes to spare.

Jarel's version of the process:

* Bought a foot of 5/8" vacuum hose
* Bought a 3/16" vacuum cap
* Took the tank off
* Pulled the two vacuum lines off of the valve cover
* Pulled the small vacuum line off of the right side of the carbs that is attached to the EGR assembly
* Pulled the vent line out of the front of the airbox
* Took out the EGR assembly
* Cut a 7 1/2" section of the 5/8" vacuum hose and connected both nipples on the valve cover to each other with the hose

* Put the 3/16" cap on the right side carb nipple

* Cut about 3" off the end of the stock vent line, plugged the end of it with an electrical cap, then stuck it back in the airbox
* Put the tank back on

Chad's silicone plug version

Tools you will need:

• Your hands
• RTV Silicone (high temp - see below)
• Paper towels for clean up
• Rubber glove (unless you like silicone on tool #1)

(Click on pictures to enlarge)

Step 1:    Remove the fuel tank. (See the fuel tank removal guide)

Step 2:    Locate the EGR valve assembly. There will be three main hoses. Two connected to the valve cover, and one running across the engine to the airbox. Another hose will be connected to the vacuum port on the far right carb. Remove the hoses from the valve cover by compressing the hose clamps. The hose in the airbox simply pulls out. The hose on the carb slips off easily as well. When you have the EGR assembly removed, it should look something like this:

Step 3:     To block off the vacuum plug on the carb, you can get a vaccum cap at a local auto parts store, or you can do what I did. Clip a small piece off of the tube you just removed from the carb about 3/4" long and fill one end with silicone as pictured below. Then place it on the carbs vaccum port.

Step 4:     Slip on a rubber glove (or go bare skinned...it's up to you) and begin filling the ports on the valve cover with silicone. Don't pack it too deep, just enough to seal it shut. Do the same for the airbox hole. If you want to take the time to make it "pretty", smooth the silicone out with your finger and use a towel to wipe off the excess. See the pictures below for the finished product:

Step 5:    The silicone will take a few hours to set up and 24 hours to totally cure. I don't think RTV silicone will do your cams any good, so riding the bike too soon would not be a good idea. I'd give it at least 12-15 hours to cure before you try it out and to be on the safe side, let the bike set the full 24 hours (which I KNOW is hard to do).

Step 6:    Make sure the silicone is dry and reassemble everything. Go give it a try!

Alternative Option posted on the Garage by BZoid:

Hey guys,

the egr ectomy gave me a little more high end pep.

the hardest part was removing and replacing the tank.

you need the following:

- 6.5 inch 5/8 vacuum hose $0.99
- 1/2" x 1 1/4" bumper bolt $2.19
- 3/16" vacuum cap $2.19 (package of 5)

all available at your local Checker Auto Parts.

revome the egr, install the 6.5 inch hose (using the old clamps), use a one inch piece of the old hose, insert the bolt and stuff it in the air box hole, put the washer and nut on the inside of the air box and tighten, place the vacuum caps on the carb nipples, replace the tank.

that's it.