Following are my notes and recommendations on the carb adjustment procedure.  These are for general information only and do not supercede anything printed in the technical manuals.  If you have any questions please email me or go ask a reputable mechanic.  Regarding skill level, this is a relatively easy job that most motorcyclists can do themselves.  Just make sure to work slowly and deliberately, and always consult and follow you technical manual.  Again, if you have any questions or concerns - ask!

1.  The following tools and supplies are required:

• 10mm wrench for removing the gas tank

• Medium sized Phillips screwdriver for the trim screws

• Long Phillips screwdriver for the adjustment screws

• Assorted medium duty zip ties

• Snips to remove the zip ties

• High powered fan to keep your bike cool (not shown)

• Carb synchronizer gauge set

Note: Concerning the carb gauges there are several varieties available, but the model I chose after much research was the Morgan Carbtune II.  This is a high-quality low-cost mechanical unit produced in the UK that doesn't require mercury to operate.  I ordered mine using their secure web form on a Saturday, and I had an email Monday morning from John Morgan himself telling me my order was on the way.  It arrived via airmail only 5 days later!  Great product and great service for the roughly 70 bucks charged to my VISA.  You can check them out on-line at http://www.carbtune.com.  BTW, I've no vested interest in Morgan, other than passing on a good experience.  

2.  Set your bike up on its center stand, and remove the gas tank.  Set it aside for now, preferably not on the gas selector.  Place your cooling fan in front of the bike and turn it on to get the air flowing.  This is very, very important as your air and oil cooled ZR doesn't like sitting in one spot with the engine running and no airflow.  Overheating your engine leads to very bad (read: expensive) things. 

3.  Remove the vacuum plugs from the fittings on the # 1 and 3 carbs, and the vacuum lines from #'s 2 and 4.  Hang your gauge set from the left grip and route the lines over the frame and connect them in order to the proper vacuum fittings: 1,2,3,4.  It is very important not to allow the vacuum lines to touch the engine in any way.  I watched the reading on my #3 carb drift down to zero while I hopelessly spun the adjustment screw.  Sure enough I had melted the vacuum line going to that gauge (doh!).  Use some of the zip ties to hold the lines to the frame to keep this from happening.

(Click these for larger pics!)

4.  Initially I tried getting by using the gas left in the float bowls to run the bike but l ran out of petrol very quickly.  I've heard of crack mechanics who are able to do this, but there just isn't enough time for blokes like you and I.  So this leaves two options:  You can buy a pony bottle to supply gas to the bike (about 60 bucks) or you can rig your existing tank to do the same.  I chose the latter.  First lay a thick cloth over the top of the bike, but don't let it drape over on the engine where it could catch fire.  Next, pull your disconnected fuel line up between the upper frame rails so it sticks out just behind your voltage regulator.  Now pick up your tank and carefully lay it on the frame over the cloth, exactly as shown below.  Use two zip ties to secure the tank to the left frame rail using the two holes normally used to locate the side trim covers.  Make sure that your tank and frame are completely protected from each other with the cloth, and that the zip ties are cinched down firmly.  Your buzzy ZR-7 will do everything it can to try to get your tank to meet your frame rails with the inevitable paint gnashing result.  Connect the fuel line to the selector, making sure that it isn't pinched in any way.  It is important to select the Prime setting on your tank, as the vacuum line that normally opens the selector to provide fuel flow needs to be disconnected.  If you forget to do this your bike won't want to run when you pull the choke off.  MAKE SURE TO RESELECT THE NORMAL POSITION PRIOR TO DISCONNECTING THE TANK AT THE END OF THIS PROCEDURE.  FAILURE TO DO SO WILL RESULT IN GAS POURING DIRECTLY ON TO YOUR HOT ENGINE.  Now reread the last three sentences because I got these all wrong the first time I did this.

(Click these for larger pics!)

5.  Take a look at everything and make sure that all is proper.  Don't forget to turn on the fan you are using to cool the bike.  

6.  Fire up the bike and let it completely warm up.  Once warm make sure the choke is off and the idle speed is correct.  You should see action on the carb gauge, and it'll probably look something like this:

The readings for the individual carbs may bounce around a bit (pulsating), but this isn't important.  

7.  First synchronize carb #'s 1 and 2.  Turn the adjustment screw between carbs 1 and 2 using the long screw driver until the readings are the same.  Note that you will probably have to turn the screw very little, as in a quarter of a turn or less.  If turning the screw has the opposite effect that you intended turn it in the other direction.  You should always wait a couple of seconds after adjusting the screw and then lightly "blip" the throttle.  Be careful not to peg the carb gauges.  "Blipping" the throttle is ultra important, make sure you do this after every adjustment turn no matter how minor.  Once you have carbs 1 and 2 synched your gauges should look something like this:

8.  Now synchronize carbs #'s 3 and 4.  Turn the adjustment screw between these two carbs using the long screwdriver until the readings are the same.  Again, you probably won't have to turn the screw very much, and don't forget to "blip" the throttle after every adjustment.  Once you have carbs 3 and 4 synched up your gauges should roughly look like this:

9.  Next synchronize carbs 1 and 2 on the left with 3 and 4 on the right.  Use the middle adjustment screw for this.  Same rules apply here - small turns and frequent throttle "blipping".  Don't get discouraged if one or more of the carbs previously set needs to be readjusted.  My recommendation is to repeat steps 7, 8, and 9 using progressively smaller screw adjustments until you have everything lined up and you are making ridiculously small adjustments.  At this point I found it helpful to watch the individual screws while I adjusted them, as this helped me better gauge the magnitude of my adjustments.  This is what you should see now:

10.  Shut everything down, and let the bike cool down a bit.  Enjoy a beverage and think about how much nicer your bike is about to run.  It isn't worth it to try to route vacuum lines across a hot engine.

11.  TURN THE GAS SELECTOR BACK TO THE NORMAL POSITION (you didn't forget about this did you?).  Undo the gas connection to the tank and carefully snip the zip ties you had holding the tank onto the frame.  Make sure to support the weight of the tank with your free hand while you cut with the other.  Take the tank off and put it back in a safe spot.

12.   Undo all of the connections to the carb gauges and remove all of the zip ties you used to route the vacuum lines.  Replace the factory vacuum caps on carbs 1 and 3, and the vacuum lines on carbs 2 and 4.  Be careful not to drop the plug on carb #3 as it is easily wedged behind your throttle linkage.

13.  Reinstall the tank, use the cloth you had between the tank and the frame to wipe down your pride and joy, and then GO RIDE.